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Next to the national park headquarters,
the village of Sang-ga-u is inhabited by sea gypsies. Originally from
the Nicobar or Andaman Islands, the sea gypsies of former centuries
were living on their boats and were feared as pirates.
The offshore islands between Phuket and Penang offered
numerous hiding-places and the entrance to the Street of Malacca, where
Dutch, Spanish and Portuguese traders passed on the way to their colonies,
were considered the most dangerous in Asia.
With the slow sailing ships disappearing, the sea gypsies
began to settle along the coast in their stilt-built houses erected
between the water level of high and low tide. Today most sea gypsies
have been granted land, surnames and citizenship in Thailand and their
villages are spread throughout the western coast of the Malaysian peninsula.
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In the Thai language they are called "Chao'Lay" that
means people of the sea and are known as the minority group "Thai
Mai" which means new Thai people. They earn their living on fishing
or catching lobster, other tasty shellfish and collecting bird's nests
for the Chinese cuisine. When walking through one of their villages,
it is obvious, that most have striking dark skin, curly hair with a
slight red touch and bushy eyebrows.
Being a matriarchal society, women can be seen wielding much
power in daily village life, and working side by side in the fishing
boats with the men. The sea gypsies are separated into three different
groups: the Moken in the North, from Tavoy and Matthews islands in Myanmar,
Ko Surin and Ko Ra in Thailand to Rawai Village at the southern tip
of Phuket. The Moklen inhabit the central region with Ko Phra Thong
and the coastal villages of Thai Muang and Laem Lar at the northern
tip of Phuket.
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The Urak Lawoi are the biggest group, with their area stretches from Ko Sireh at Phuket's eastern coast to Ko Hay, Ko Phi Phi, Koh Lanta, Ko Pu, Ko Libong, Ko Lipe and as far as the Malaysian island of Langkawi.
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The sea gypsies keep close
relations to other villages but do not integrate into the Thai
population. They still retain their own language, that belongs to the
Malay-Indonesian language family, has no writing but is still found
in many geographical names. The name "Pulau" means island
and "Piapi" is the name of a tree growing in the mangrove
swamps. During the centuries, the name "Pulau Piapi" changed
to today's Phi Phi.
Because of being people that depend on the nature, their belief
in the supernatural and traditional spiritual worship is still strong
in the community and colours many of their ceremonies. The bi-annual
event is "Floating Boats" (Loy-Rua), when the village men
jointly build a symbolic boat and place wooden statues of themselves
in it, along with nail pairings, hair and popped rice.
A medium chants sacred words over the boat and its occupants
are cast off. By performing this ritual the gypsies ask for forgiveness
from the sea gods for any offences they have made to the sea and believe
that all evil is carried away in the vessel. The event is a joyful occassion
for everybody.
During a cremation a coconut
is planted, with the wish, that the children of the deceased should
live long and in good health.

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P.O. Box 158, Phuket Town, Thailand 83000
Tel.: (++66) 8 9459 5219 | Fax: (++66) 7652 1735 | E-mail: info@ko-lanta.com
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